🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.