The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Modern Britain: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

A serendipitous meeting while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the trajectory of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the city's buzzing 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.

"That era was the zenith of the Britart scene – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be great friends. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that energy."

Although Enninful appears nostalgic, he is in good company. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. But over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a profound shift. "I believe, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Cultural Backslide

This change is increasingly evident: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the reaction against progressive values, and the return of narrow beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the Blair era, now a different political figure stands as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of national pride, has returned as a polarising symbol.

In Enninful's view, the solution has always been to promote culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, including a broad spectrum of cultural icons from music.

"Those in a position of influence should use it," he says, explaining those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it refused my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I hope this phase will fade."

Hope in the Next Generation

He finds hope in the younger generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

The beginnings of his career would define a groundbreaking career marked by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and individuals from varied communities. Importantly, sales increased.

"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he explains.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has established his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since departing his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".

"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … this duality gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

Contrary to the popular image of industry figures as loud and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His life has involved adversity, including well-documented battles with mental health and addiction.

He has also undergone significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I was in such a dark place for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I vowed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

A Foray into Curation

This refusal to fit into a box has propelled him beyond the realm that established him. He is now organising a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who did not receive adequate attention at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to promote the most relevant talents because they lacked the expected background," he states.

This project itself uses a unique strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "The question is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform."

A Testament to Resilience

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His journey, he states, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

How would the younger Edward make of the man he has become? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. At that time I was anti-establishment. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We were displaced, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have counted me out my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve decided to do something."